Chartering and Bareboating - Sailing and cruising in the Abacos

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Chartering and Bareboating - Sailing and cruising in the Abacos
Extracted from an MSNBC staffer article

For most people, a cruise means a trip on a floating hotel that periodically offloads its horde on various ports of call for a few hours of souvenir shopping. But if you'd prefer to leave the crowd behind, consider charting your own course - by chartering your own sailboat.

It's also a great family vacation - for all ages. Our family of four began bareboating when our youngest, Matt, was 6 - old enough to swim safely, handle basic sailing tasks and keep up with nightly readings from "Treasure Island."

And the freedom of shoving off to sea to chart your own course will keep even jaded teen-agers amused. On a recent trip, Sarah, 14, was so busy snorkeling, piloting the dingy, handling the anchor and taking turns at the helm that she forgot her recent pledge never to be seen in public for more than 15 minutes with her dorky parents.

Maybe the reason it works so well is that there's something for everybody - and you can tailor each day accordingly. A swim in warm, aquamarine waters is never further away than the stern of your boat. Pristine white beaches abound; unspoiled coral reefs offer some of the best snorkeling in the world. Dolphins and sea turtles are frequent companions en route. And to thwart cabin fever, a quick trip ashore provides a chance for a jog, a little shopping or a hilltop hike with 360-degree vistas.

If you're up for nightlife, chart a course for one of the many harbors with local music, great food and lots of friendly people. Feel like eating on board in a quiet harbor all to yourself? Steer for one of the many out-of-the-way coves, plunk down the anchor and spend a simple evening with just a deck of cards or a dazzling display of stars for entertainment.        

YOUR SOLO DEBUT How do you know if you're ready to shove off on your own? You'll need to know at least the basics of sailing and navigation. Before they'll give you a boat, charter companies will ask you to fill out a simple resume detailing your sailing experience.

And if you're not entirely sure you're ready to solo, consider hiring a skipper for a day or two until you feel comfortable. Most charter companies will arrange this for you; expect to pay about $100 a day for the captain.

Prices for the boat itself depends a lot on when you go. Rates can be as much as 60 percent higher during the high season than during the summer months.

You'll also have to pick a charter company; there are dozens to choose from and rates can vary greatly. Smaller firms, some of which manage just a handful of boats, may offer lower prices to compete with bigger, more established companies. But those with bigger fleets and larger staffs are also better able to handle problems as they arise. It's not unheard of for a refrigerator to act up or a dingy motor to quit. Before you sign the contract, ask the charter company how they handle such contingencies.

Pack light. Most of what you'll need is provided. You should check with your charter company, but most supply bedding, towels, cooking gear, flashlights, tape player, snorkeling equipment, etc. Unless you've got a long reading list, a duffel bag should do it. (Just save room for a few Jimmy Buffet CDs.)

FOOD, GROG AND THOU

Before you shove off, you'll also need to stock up with food and grog. You can do just fine at one of several local grocery stores, but don't expect to find the same shelf space and product variety you're used to at your favorite U.S. supermarket. If you want to skip the hassle, most charter companies will provision the boat based on a shopping list of food and other staples you send in with the contract. For a fixed per diem price, you can get what's called "split" provisioning that assumes you'll eat some dinners ashore. It's a safe bet: just about every anchorage offers at least one spot to let the cook take the night off.

After you arrive at the charter base, you'll get two important briefings. The first, a boat briefing, gives you a chance to ask any questions you have about how the boat works. You're expected to know how to sail, but don't be shy about asking questions that may sound dumb - your boat briefer has heard dumber. You'll have a lot of ground to cover, including rigging and sails, engine, electrical systems, water tanks, refrigerator and gas stove, bilge pump, anchor windlass, VHF radio, safety and navigation systems, dingy and outboard, and, most importantly - how to operate the head without clogging it up.        

The other important session is the chart briefing, where you'll get an overview of local ports and harbors and recommendations on where to find the calmest waters and best holding grounds. Generally speaking, these are on the south and western sides of the islands - away from the big swells that roll in from the open ocean.

For more information, there are numerous books on bareboating and cruising which include lots of useful information on local lore, flora and fauna, tips on provisioning, local contacts, etc.


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